Travelogue for Year 2015

At the end of 2014, I wrote about my travel-hopes for 2015.

Today, I look back on the adventures that 2015 have taken me and I feel blessed and privileged to have embarked on two out of the three journeys I was hoping to take.

Our first steps on African soil took us to South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Botswana. Till now, every time I picture the South African coasts and the vast wilderness in Botswana, my heart feels so full – like it’s complete, and yet full of longing to return again and again.

Rugged coastline at the Cape of Good Hope

Herd of impalas crossing the road in Zimbabwe

Floating along the Okavango Delta

 

South America was the furthest we’ve gone. It was the most unfamiliar we’ve felt. And it was the most anxious I’ve been, planning for a trip. We didn’t speak the language, it was rather difficult to find credible information online, we were worried about safety, and a variety of other odds and ends. But in the end it was so worth it. The experience still feels so special and liberating.

Chilean Patagonia. ‘Nuff said. | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

This was one trip where the ‘journey’ itself was very much part of the experience, and the ‘destination’ included not one, not two, but FOUR great highlights. That’s 4 big travel moments all packed into a 12-day trip.

These two trips were both magnificent in their own way. And I think very little else is going to beat these experiences. Yet, there is so much more of the world to see… maybe one more year of wild adventures before we settle down?

My Favourite Sunset

I have decided that my favourite sunsets are the African ones.

Sunset at Camps Bay | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Africans seem big on sunsets. I say this because (1) there’s always a sunset cruise or a walk to see the sunset, (2) there were many people watching the sunset together with us at the Camps Bay beach (even a film crew), and (3) our local tour guide in Cape Town was obsessed with taking photos of sunsets in his own country.

Sunset at Knysna (Western Head) | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

It’s not hard to understand why. Not when every time we saw a sunset in Africa, it looked like a different one. Sometimes the sun went hiding behind a never-ending horizon, while sometimes it slip below the silhouette of trees. Sometimes it was dressed in fiery reds and oranges, while sometimes it adorned gentle purples and pinks.

Just fiery red ball | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

In some instances, one cannot help but think of the red sunset in The Lion King:

Fiery red sunset (tree included) | Credits: Disney’s The Lion King

I think it’s time to up my photography game. Maybe then, I will be able to capture the sunsets as stunningly as they are in real life. And also, perhaps it’ll look more like the animated version.

Sunset on a cruise along Chobe River | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Sunset back at Chobe Safari Lodge | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Watching the sun go down in Africa always marked the end of yet another amazing day and held the promise of another after a good night’s rest. It’s always about the feels, isn’t it?

Setting sun at Okavango Delta | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

It’s about the journey too

I have a slight preference for taking trains when I travel from place to place within a trip. Trains are (generally) cheaper than planes and (usually) faster than buses. They do not require a lot of extra time for checking in (unlike airports) and brings you on a less bumpy ride (I often get motion sickness on buses) while giving you a good look at the land you are travelling through.

Recently in Botswana, I got to experience a new type of connection – the light aircraft. The aircraft we were on only holds 7 passengers and so check in at the airport was a breeze. And in preparation for the potentially bumpy ride (since these planes are smaller than commercial airplanes, you feel the bumps from the wind more) we took motion sickness pills. Too many past episodes of puking on holiday has made me overly-cautious in this regard.

About to take our first light aircraft flight at Kasane airport| Photo credit: Juxxtapose

We flew with Major Blue Air to our camp within the Okavango Delta. The flying added to our cost but Chobe to Okavango Delta is too far a distance on road. Once in the air, we were treated with vast views of Botswana that seemed to go on endlessly into the horizon. (We later read that Botswana is a flat country and so, often, views of the land look like they stretch on forever in every direction.)

Light aircrafts do not ascend as high as commercial aircrafts and so you get a relatively close-up view of what’s on the ground. As we took off from Kasane Airport, the ground beneath us looked brown and dry. We caught sight of elephants making their way to water. And then got further ascended and we couldn’t quite see animals anymore.

Flying over the Okavango Delta | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

While we are busy being fascinated by the view, the landscape gradually changed from that brown dry land to a lush green oasis. The availability of water increased drastically and it hit me that we were flying over the Delta. The view from every window was never-ending stretches of unspoilt greenery. Coming from a country with scarce land area, untouched chunks of natural land like this is a luxury, and I hope man never gets his hands on it.

As we began descent, we were slowly able to make out tiny animal shapes once again. And before we knew it, it was a smooth landing at Xarakai Airstrip.

Arrival at the ‘airport’ that had only one ‘terminal’ | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

I can’t say I have had much experience with small domestic airports. I think Kasane and Victoria Falls airports would be among the smallest I’ve been to. This, however, is the by far the tiniest one I think I’ll ever come across. Okay fine, it’s not even called an airport, it’s just an airstrip.

The good people from Kana Kara Camp where we stayed were already waiting to pick us up. We didn’t even have to carry our bags – they just went directly from plane to truck. Also waiting were the people leaving the Delta on the plane we arrived in. No check-in for them (and for us when we leave), bags just go directly from truck to plane. No passport checks either. Easy peasy.

Stopping for lunch on the way to camp | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Next we enjoyed an hour’s ride to the camp, stopping for a picnic lunch along the way. Upon leaving the airstrip, we drove through an interesting portion of land, one that we affectionately named ‘destruction zone’ because it was filled with trees and shrubs that were all broken and leafless. Our driver and guide informed us that the elephants got to them – elephants always leave a trail of destruction in their wake. Then we drove through some bushes and, hey presto, we were back in lush green oasis land again. We even did some game viewing on the way.

Our game drive vehicle came to a stop at its designated parking spot in front of some water. For brief moment I genuinely thought we were going to have to wade through the channel to the camp which was on the island on the other side. I really don’t know why I thought that. Everyone had been taking such good care of us and our itinerary wasn’t even close to the roughing-it-out type.

We’re almost there! | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Past the tall papyrus lay two mokoros (traditional dug out canoes) waiting for us. They look so flimsy and lightweight but they handled 3 people (including the guide) and out bags with ease. I was sure we were going to flip over but thankfully that didn’t happen.

Even though it was a lengthy transfer process from Chobe to Kana Kara, it was pleasant and memorable. It felt like a tour in itself. Anywhere else in the world, and I would be contemplating whether the destination would be worth the journey. I will not go so far as to say that travelling is about the journey and not the destination (cos let’s face it, the destination is pretty great too), but instead, I’ll say traveling is about the journey too.

Kayak + Lilo = Unexpected Fun

This was the plan for Day 4 of our African Adventure:

1. Get to Tsitsikamma National Park

2. Take leisurely walk to the suspension bridges

3. Enjoy the view and being in nature

4. Take photos

But made a last minute decision to do more, because how can one call it an adventure if there are no adventurous elements within? We already knew that the bungee jump at Bloukrans Bridge was out of the question for us (scardy cats). Instead, we decided quickly that we would take up an activity at Storms River. We considered a few options and read countless reviews, and eventually we set our sights on kayaking & liloing up Storms River conducted by Untouched Adventures.

I’ve linked the website if you’re interested in more information, but the gist of it is this:

• First, kayaking across the open ocean and then turning into and up the Storms River mouth (under the suspension bridge and between the beautiful Storms River Gorge).

• Further upstream, about where the salt water turns into fresh water, swapping the kayaks for lilos (which are basically heavy-duty floats) and paddling further upstream.

• Try to do stunts like standing on top of the lilos (I failed miserably at that by the way).

• Going back the way you came.

The suspension bridges at Tsitsikamma National Park | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Being in South Africa during the off-peak season, we enjoyed the privilege of being only 2 people who had signed up for the activity that morning. The guide to participant ratio was 1:1, as we enjoyed a private tour at our own pace. Before the tour, I harboured slight doubts about my ability to kayak fast enough to keep up with a group, but it didn’t matter because it was just the two of us, and we even had the luxury to slow down for photos.

Entering the magnificent gorge | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Yes, every time I stopped to take pictures, the double kayak would be reduced to a one-man-powered kayak. The guides, obviously skilled in their kayak maneuvering, would wait patiently as we floated along and even helped us to capture great shots. They also told us more about the river and the caves along the way.

When we got onto our lilos, the guides stayed with their kayaks. So when our arms were tired from paddling, we held on to the rope on their kayak and they propelled us forward. (Yes, we kinda cheated for a while there.)

Our first ‘stunt’ in the lilos | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Paddling through the black waters of the Storms River was like a personal connection with the land. Falling into the water and being dwarfed by the gorge, I felt like we were really experiencing what the land had to offer. As we kayaked back out to the open sea, I felt sorry to have to leave.

Exiting the gorge with the bridge and sea in view | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

After a quick shower and some smoked kudu (yum!), we took a short hike to the suspension bridges, seeing from over the bridge what we had experienced under.

Loving the journey | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

 

A Peaceful Haven in Hwange

We spent 2 nights in the vicinity of Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. More specifically, we were lovingly cared for by the good people at Sable Sand Lodge which is along the Dete Vlei, adjacent to Hwange National Park.

It was our first ever bush experience so we were excited, eager, and maybe a little apprehensive, not knowing what to expect. We didn’t know then that two days later, we would be missing the place even as we left Sable Sands Lodge behind us and headed towards Victoria Falls.

On first full day at Sable Sands, we awoke (not-so) bright and early. The generators were back on, after lights out at 10pm the previous night, to facilitate our early morning start. We enjoyed the temporary exclusivity of our stay (the 3 others were checking out that morning and a large group of 15 were to check-in that evening), as the two of us hopped onto the game drive vehicle for a ‘private’ drive into Hwange National Park.

Unprotected from the elements, the frosty morning air beat our frozen faces and chattering teeth as we sped along to the park. We were provided warm fleece blankets which we gratefully used to cover our bodies from neck down. This was our first lesson in Morning Game Drives 101: it will always be freezing cold until the sun rises to thaw you out.

At the viewing platform, our rest stop at Hwange National Park | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

In retrospect, the thing I liked about Hwange National Park was that it saw much fewer tourists than the busy Chobe National Park in Botswana. There were fewer cars on the routes, and so it felt more like a sanctuary for wild animal and less like an open zoo. I love that the animals could be left undisturbed, going about their day without 5 vehicles full of tourists gawking and pointing cameras in their faces at one time. (Although I admit that want to be one of those gawking tourists, maybe it’s best we don’t visit in such large crowds.)

A harem herd of impalas waiting in the shade to cross the road ahead of us | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Now the thing I like less about National Parks is that visitors are not allowed to drive off the designated roads. I guess this is a good rule to have especially for the busier parks. Can’t have us humans going into the homes of these animals and wrecking havoc now, can we?

But staying at Sable Sands Lodge which in not in the National Park means that we were able to enjoy game drives within the lodge’s grounds as well. And because it was just us going around, we were not of any hinderance or annoyance to the animals roaming the Dete Vlei. Unbound by park rules, we were able to drive off paths to get closer to the animals, especially the herds of African Elephants.

Close enough for my tiny compact camera to handle | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

We managed to get plenty of great shots despite only being armed with an old Sony Nex (with standard lens) and a Canon S120. Some of the elephants even came so close, they could touch our vehicle with their trunks. Seeing these animals in their natural habitat, up close, and not through binoculars (which we didn’t have either) or the zoom lens of a camera, was priceless. It was like being invited into their homes and being in their land, not ours.

Just two of the hundreds of inquisitive Cape Buffalos | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

That same evening we found ourselves in the middle of a herd of what must have been hundreds of Cape Buffalos. We first saw a few by the side of the path we were on. Upon seeing clouds of dust ahead, our driver and guide told us that there were probably more ahead. He was right. He drove further along, and within seconds we were surrounded by them. All of them had their eyes fixed on us, like they were watching our every move just as we were watching theirs. If they had all decided to charge at us at that point, I would not be here typing this. However, at no point did we feel intimidated by them, because every slightest sound or movement we made, sent some of them scurrying away. Most of the animals are just like them, if unprovoked, they would rather avoid confrontation if they could.

Our last campfire at Sable Sands Lodge | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

As the sun set, we enjoyed our last campfire in Zimbabwe facing the Dete Vlei where lions’ roars could be heard in the pitch-black darkness of nightfall and listening to the soft crackling of the fire. Before the large group of 15 arrived, this was our little haven of peace.

Table Mountain – Feeling on top of the world

On the very day we set foot on African soil for the first time, we took a trip up Table Mountain. Arguably the most iconic landmark in Cape Town, we were all psyched up and ready to go despite having just endured a total of 12 hours in the skies. But first, a quick note on how impressed I was with the cable cars that brought non-hikers up Table Mountain.

Best cable car in the world | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

It looks totally ordinary on the outside, but once the inside, it is anything but. As you enter, you will notice the cable car operator stationed in a booth in the middle of the circular shape of the car. All around that booth, you will observe a donut-shaped platform that covers the standing space in the cable car. This platform rotates slowly as the cable car ascends (or descends) enabling a 360 degree view regardless of where you’re standing in the car. For most other cable cars, the hubs and I get into a discussion of where we would ideally like to sit/stand while we are queuing. Most of the time, it would be front, back, left, or right depending of what we determined the ‘best’ view was. But for this cable car ride, there was no need for such a discussion. Just make a beeline to the peripheral edge of the ‘donut’, and even if you don’t find yourself in front of a window, you will enjoy the views from not just one, but all the windows in the duration of the ride. After we left, I dubbed it the best cable car in the world. I mean, why do people even build square/rectangular cable cars? Or worse, round cable cars that do not have a rotating platform? If any of you travel bugs know of similar cable cars elsewhere that rotate, please tell me, I would love to know where.

The view of Lion’s Head and Signal Hill from Table Mountain | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

When we got to the top, we were so excited that we just followed the mass of the people along the man-made pathways, peeking over the edge constantly at the great views of Lion’s Head, Signal Hill, Camps Bay (where we stayed that night), and the rest of the city. But soon we realised that Table Mountain was actually more accurately ‘Table Mountain National Park’, and was much larger than we had expected it to be. We walked along the paths some more until what I think was the middle of the entire park area (in reality, I think it is entirely possible that we merely scrapped the surface of the whole place), and decided that it was time to go onto unpaved tracks so that we could cut across to see the views from the other side of Table Mountain.

Feeling on top of the world, balancing on the rocks at the edge of the mountain | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Now off the paved pathways, we felt more adventurous, hopping from rock to rock and pushing through long grass. We were rewarded with more stunning views on the other side, and equally stunning photographs. While we were walking, the low-lying clouds started rolling in, giving the impression that we were much higher than we actually were. Another thing that was icing to the cake was spotting these little creatures.

Dassie sighting | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

I believe they are called Dassies, and they are absolutely adorable. It struck me that they look like a rounder and more compact version of my favourite animal in Australia – Quokkas. Digging up an old photo of it made me realise that it has been 5 long years since I first (and last) saw them.

A quokka on Rottnest Island in 2010 | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

And… we’re back!

Lions spotted at the Okavango Delta | Photo credit: Juxxtapose

Africa was everything I hoped it would be, and more. From the beautiful coasts and friendly locals in South Africa, to the raw touch of nature in Zimbabwe and Botswana, I think I can safely say that this will always be one of the best vacations we’ve taken.

This was our first time stepping onto the African continent. Everything was fresh and new and interesting. We made plans to step out of our comfort zone during the trip and it paid off (more on these experiences soon).

All in all, it was like a much needed breath of fresh air in a life that was getting too comfortable.

It’s finally happening!

Beautiful Cape Town | Photo credit: blog.needsupply.com

My African Adventure begins in 12 days!!

And now that it’s just barely 2 weeks away, I’m starting to realise that is real and not just plans laid out on paper. I’ve been dreaming of visiting Africa for ages now, and we started planning for this trip early the year. It was all emails and google spreadsheets, tabulating the budget, finding the best connections, reading up on places and activities… and then suddenly realisation sets in – we’re going to Africa! I am beyond excited, and thinking about it makes me feel like my heart is going to explode from my chest!

We’ll be landing in Cape Town for starters and exploring the famous scenic Garden Route, then heading to safaris in Zimbabwe and Botswana, with a short stay at the Victoria Falls in between. After that, an overnight at Joburg before flying home.

I’m so thankful we managed to include almost everything we wanted to see given our limited time and budget. Opportunities to travel don’t come easily and this may well be our only trip to Africa ever.

As usual, being a born-worrier, I’m nervous about how the trip will go, knowing that even the best-laid plans are subjected to circumstances. But I know, for sure, that we are definitely going to have the time of our lives!

Dreaming of an African Adventure

I was a very distracted kid. I remember numerous occasions when I sat staring at my homework for hours and at the end of it, it was still not done. In fact, scratch ‘numerous occasions’, it was more like almost every single time. I would sit and immediately get lost in the dreamland of my mind.

I think it was my mum who told me that when I get distracted by thoughts I can’t shake off, to write the thoughts down on a piece of paper and put it away. It did help. Writing it down seemed to have cleared it from my mind, allowing me to focus better on the task at hand. Gradually, though, I forgot this piece of advice. Despite this, I retained the habit of having to write down lists of to-do tasks when it felt like they were building up in my mind. I immediately felt more at ease and in control after writing them down.

I only got reminded of this piece of advice yesterday when I found my mind refusing to concentrate. I incidentally decided to draw what was on my mind, and immediately after I got it on paper, I could focus much better.

Here’s what I drew, dreaming of an African adventure:

Credit: Juxxtapose

(My camels look like dinosaurs!)

This is definitely an easy trick you can try when you find yourself distracted by your thoughts, and also, it is living proof that there are practical benefits to journaling or doodling.

Achievement Unlocked: First Order Mailed!

I finally mailed out the very first order I’ve received. Fingers crossed, it gets mailed safely.

This journal was a custom order, meaning the colours and country to be sewn on were all chosen by the buyer. She even requested for the little heart shape because she was going to Uganda/Kenya.

Photo credit: Juxxtapose

I am obviously jumping for joy over this, but at the same time I’m feeling a little nervous about everything. After all, this is my first time doing something like this.

But you know what they say, ‘Do one thing everyday that scares you’. This feeling of apprehension coupled with excitement may be scary, but it really does keep you feeling alive.

(Anyway, if you’re interested to get one for yourself, click here.)